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A Little Bit

I’m at the stage on my chairs where the joinery is complete and I’m about ready to glue up.  Of course, prior to assembly, I want to have all the parts sanded.  Sharp edges are not desirable in any work, so all the edges need to be rounded over, too.  My question is:  In what order should I accomplish these things?

I’m of the opinion that the order should be:  sand, round over, sand.  No, I didn’t stutter.  I typically start sanding at 100 or 120 grit.  For a project that will receive an oil finish, like the chairs, I complete the sanding process at 320 or 400.  My progression goes:  100,  120, 150, 180, 240, 320, 400.  If I were to round over the edges prior to starting the sanding process, I would loose some of my roundover when sanding with the coarse grits.  If I waited until the end of the process, I would be resanding very smooth surfaces, a waste of time.

Therefore, I do my roundovers after sanding with 180 grit.  I do them by hand-sanding or with a router and roundover bit.  There are lots of edges to do on the chairs, so I’ll use a router.  The question then arises:  What size bit to use?

I not a fan of big roundovers.  While the Craftsman look appeals to me, I prefer a more defined edge.  On most of my work, 1/8″ roundovers are too big.  1/16″ – 3/32″ looks best to me.  And therein lies the problem (until recently).  Many manufactureres make a 1/16″ roundover bit, but it’s so small it doesn’t do much for you.  Any slight irregularities in the surface negate the cutting action of the bit.  A 3/32″ bit?  I couldn’t find one.  You would think the jump from 1/16″ to 1/8″ is too big to ignore without an intermediate size, but it didn’t exist where I looked.

I mentioned the problem to my chair class, and one of my students looked around on the web and found that Whiteside does indeed make the bit.  Thanks Ed!  Here’s a photo of the little gem.

3/32 roundover bit

I know it doesn’t look like much, but this little bit is huge to me.

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Knife hinges are an elegant way to hang a door.  They have been around a while, but my guess is that James Krevov popularized them via his books and teaching.  That’s how I first came across them, back in the early 1980′s.  For the hall table/cabinet, they are the only hinges that would work.  I use Brusso hinges because they’re easy to get and work reasonably well.  The downside to them is the brass pin, which can gall in the brass hole into which it fits.  Also, the washer machined into the hinge is a bit on the thick side, but for this cabinet it’s not an issue.

Before I put the face frame together, I need to make the mortises for the knife hinges.  It would be very difficult to do after the glue-up.  I typically use the method specifed by Brusso for installation of the hinges, in which a small, precisely made jig is used to locate the pin relative to the cabinet sides.  In this case, that method wouldn’t work, since the hinges have different references top and bottom.  I just laid everything out very carefully, referencing off centerlines on each rail.  The upper hinges are located on the top rail as far outboard as they will go.  The lower hinges are located below the upper ones.

The photo shows the tools I used to lay out and install the mortises.  I used the cutting gauge to scribe lines parallel to the front edge of the rails, spaced 5/16″ apart (the hinge width).  I used the depth gauge, referenced off the ends of the rails, to make sure everything was centered.  The router, with a 3/16″ straight bit, was used to cut bulk of the mortises, and the remaining material was removed with the chisels.  The scribe lines make for accurate location of the chisel.  Here’s a close-up of one of the hinges.

I’ll install the hinges with steel screws for now, saving the brass screws that come with the hinges for later.  They only get installed once, at the very end of the project.

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