November 2008

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Sliding dovetails

I previously discussed how I plan to join the sides, web frame, and bottom shelf here, using sliding dovetails.  They will provide a mechanically strong and invisible joint.  Before cutting the dovetail dadoes, I carefully cut the sides to length using my table saw and sled, with the blade tilted the requisite 11 degrees.  To locate the dadoes, I aligned the sides to the face frame and used a straightedge and marking knife to mark the position even with the tops of the rails.

I set up three routers with the requisite bits:  7/8″ straight, 3/8″ straight, and 3/4″ dovetail.  The jig aligns easily with the knife mark on the sides (assuming you put it on the correct side of the knife mark!).  I routed the 7/8″ dado first, after noting the rotational orientation of the router base in the jig.  Because the base is never perfectly concentric with the bit, I wanted to make sure it was aligned with the dado already routed in the jig.  A 3/8″ dado came next.  That is done to make it easier on the dovetail bit; less material to remove makes for a cleaner cut.  The dovetail bit was last.

After that, I cut the rabbet for the back to fit in, and trimmed the bottom corner of the rabbet with a chisel.

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Face frame

Face frame construction typically refers to kitchen or bath cabinets, but it is appropriate here too.  My “face frame”, consisting of two rails and two stiles, will sit on the front of the sides.  It will be mitered on the edges, to mate with similarly mitered edges on the sides.  Hence, a face frame.  The photo below shows the glue-up.  I took great care to align everything, as the rails need to be parallel to each other and the correct distance apart for the previously installed knife hinges.  Note the stops clamped in place on the stiles, and the angled cauls.

Because I knew the glue-up and alignment would take some time, I used polyurethane glue on the mortise and tenon joints.  PVA (yellow glue) would set up way too quickly for me to get everything situated; the polyurethane gave me the working time needed.  I applied glue to the mortises and wiped the tenons with a wet sponge to get the moisture necessary to set the glue.  I use Gorilla Glue; I like it the best of the polyurethane glues I have tried.

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